As a perennial plant, lavender is an excellent choice for your regenerative garden.

However, many struggle to start it from seed. Lavender  requires a bit of care and attention that is different from most other edible plants in the garden.

In this guide, I’ll share my tips and tricks for starting lavender plants from seed.

I’ll also detail how to propagate lavender from cuttings.

You'll learn:

1. How to plant lavender seeds: depth, spacing, and best practices
2. When to sow lavender seeds
3. Best practices for growing lavender in containers
4. What varieties of lavender to plant for your growing zone
5. Where to source lavender seeds
6. When to harvest lavender
7. How lavender benefits regenerative gardening practices

Lavender Quick Facts:

Botanical Genus Name: Lavandula

Common Species: French Lavender, Spanish Lavender, English Lavender, Egyptian Lavender

Botanical Family: Mint

Growing Habit: Perennial

Lavender from Seed: Germination Guide

→ Lavender seeds require two distinct processes to germinate:
   1. A period of cold temperatures for at least 21 days
    2. Light for 30-60 days
This means that you can start your lavender seeds in January and have them germinate in April.

I’ll be honest: the first season I tried to grow lavender I failed.

I made the mistake of sowing the seed in the same way that I do vegetables: cover with soil indoors in the spring time.

My 0% germination rate sent me searching for answers.

It turns out that many perennial plant seeds need to go through a process called cold stratification before germination is triggered.

These seeds need to experience a “winter” before it’s safe for them to germinate.

This prevents seeds from sprouting at the wrong time, only to get killed off by winter temperatures.

Other seeds also evolved to require light to grow. These seeds will not grow if they are covered in soil.

Here’s how I successfully grow lavender:

Step 1: Cold Stratification

(start January or February):This is the method I use because I cold stratify a lot of seeds and do not have a ton of room in my fridge

1. In an old cloth, place some slightly damp soil.
2. On top of the soil, scatter your lavender seeds. Keep them on top, do not press them in.
3. Cover the soil with the cloth, and secure shut with tape or twine.
4. Place the cloth bundle in a container or bag in the refrigerator.
5. Keep the cloth bundle in the fridge for 21-30 days.

Step 2: Surface Sow

Surface Sowing in Trays (February or March):

1. After the cold stratification process, prepare seed trays with soil.
2. Remove your seed + soil bundle from the fridge.
3. Carefully unwrap the soil bundle.
4. Carefully surface sow the parts of the soil that have seed on them into your seed trays. It will be kind of hard to sow 1 seed per cell, but you can thin the sprouts out later.
5. Press the seeds into the soil, but do not cover.

Step 3: Light

1. Place the seeds under LED grow lights or in a greenhouse where they will receive ample sunlight.

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Here is an easier way to cold stratify lavender seeds(start January or February):

This is easier because you have more control over sowing seeds, but it will take up space in your fridge

1. Prepare small seed trays with damp soil
2. On top of the soil, scatter your lavender seeds. Sow 2-3 per cell. Keep them on top, do not cover them.
3. Cover the soil with a cloth or humidity dome.
4. Place the seed tray on a towel in in the refrigerator.
5. Keep the seed tray in the fridge for 21-30 days.
6. Place the seeds under LED grow lights or in a greenhouse where they will receive ample sunlight

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The easiest but riskiest way to cold stratify lavender seeds (start in January):

This is the easiest method because you will work with the naturally cold temperatures outside. However, the tiny seeds, extra long germination time, and surface sowing all combine for a lower success rate than the other methods. Additionally, a warm winter could interfere with proper cold stratification.

I would only use this method if I knew that a patch of my garden would remain undisturbed for a solid three months. The first month would need to have consistent temperatures in the 30s.

1. Direct sow the seeds outdoors during the coldest time of the year. Usually this is January.
2. Do not cover seeds. They need light to germinate.
3. Remember that cold stratification takes around a month, and germination can happen anywhere from 1-2 months after that point.
4. When you see baby lavender plants, rejoice!

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How long do lavender seeds take to germinate?

Lavender seeds can take 30-60 days to germinate after the cold stratification process.

This means you could start cold stratification on January 15th, place them under light on February 7th, and wait until April 7th for germination.

This is a long wait. Unfortunately I’ve seen people give up and toss their lavender seeds and soil and move on to different plants.

I personally experienced lavender seeds germinating after 2 months!

Lavender is such a beneficial and beautiful plant, so it’s totally worth the wait.

Tips to start lavender seeds indoors:

• Choose air pruning seed trays, like these Epic 6 cells. .
• Keep humidity domes on the seed trays until germination. Once seeds have sprouted, remove the humidity domes.
• Run a small fan on the seedlings lightly a for short periods of time daily. This will prevent legginess and disease.
• Bottom water your seedlings to prevent disease issues.
• Aim to transplant your lavender seedlings out into the garden by the time they are 6 inches tall.

May-June: Transplant lavender seedlings outdoors

Lavender really do thrive in warm and sandy soil, so it’s best to wait at least two weeks after your last frost to ensure that cold weather doesn’t stunt your plants.

Steps to transplant your lavender seedlings

1. Carefully remove the seedling from its tray. Bury it up to its lowest leaves.
2. Optional mycorrhizal inoculant: Add in a mycorrhizal inoculant. Lavender forms beneficial relationships with mycorrhizal fungi.
3. Optional drainage support: Lavender does not do well in water-logged soil. If you have soil that is loamy or clay, add some grit or drainage pebbles into the soil.
4. Spacing: Space transplants at least 2 feet apart. Remember that these are perennial plants and will expand in width year after year.
5. Water in: Water your transplant in well.
6. Mulch your seedlings: Mulch around your plants with fine wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings, or organic straw.
7. Then, water at regular intervals: In my climate, I have to check my lavender plants during drought and heat. Until they are established they’ll need daily watering during this time. Under more temperate conditions, water seedlings 2-3 times a week. The following year they won’t need supplemental water unless there is no rain for a week.

How to grow lavender in containers:

For the most part, the guidelines for sowing and transplanting lavender also apply to container growing.

You’ll want to pot up your lavender plants as they grow. You can start out with a 1 or 2 gallon pot. Then pot it up into a bigger pot a few years once it outgrows the smaller container. A 5 gallon grow bag is a great size for this.

When to harvest lavender:

The first year you grow lavender from seed, you will not get very many blooms. It’s also possible to not get any blooms your first year.

You should start to get an increasing amount of lavender flowers year after year. By the plant’s 3rd or 4th season, you’ll have abundant blooms for fresh and dried bouquets.

The best time to harvest lavender is when the purple flowers are present and fragrant. They will bloom in the mid-late summer.

Cut the lavender with an ample amount of stem in the morning, after the dew has evaporated but before any intense heat kicks in.

The lavender blooms will continue to come on throughout the summer into early autumn as long as you keep harvesting stems.

How to dry lavender for dried bouquets

For drying, bundle your lavender stems together with an elastic or string. Hang upside down in a cool and dry place. Flowers should start to dry out in around 2 weeks, depending on humidity levels.

Once the stems and blooms are completely dried, you can display the lavender in a dry vase or jar.

Best Varieties of Lavender to Grow from Seed

Sage Creations Farm, an organic lavender Farm in Colorado, clarifies the confusion between these three types of lavender.

It’s important to note that the three commonly referred to groups of lavender are not specifically classified.

By that, I mean that Spanish, English, and French lavender are referred to differently depending on where you’re located.

English Lavender aka “True Lavender”:

Lavandula angustifolia

There are a few cultivars of English lavender available.

English lavender has a classic lavender look in terms of color and flower shape. They are very high scent plants.

This genus is well-suited to colder climates (SCF).

Types of English lavender include:

Hidcote Lavender: Strong smelling purple flowers, available from Renee’s Garden or Strictly Medicinals.

Munstead Lavender: Large flower blooms, great for pollinator gardens. Available from Renee’s Garden and Botanical Interests.

Avignon Early Blue: Dwarf variety for container gardens; early blooming. Available at Swallowtail Gardens.

French Lavender:

Lavandula angustifolia, Lavandula stoechas (UK), Lavandula dentata (FR)

Flowers of French lavender are more open and full than that of English, and the leaves of this type are broader and oval shaped.

Like English lavender, there are many cultivars within the French Lavender category.

Varieties of French Lavender include:

French Perfume: Perfect for container gardens with its compact size. Available at Renee’s Garden.

Spanish Lavender:

Lavandula stoeches (US)

Spanish Lavender has a unique look. Instead of the common blue-purple tones of “standard” lavender, this variety comes in deep purple and pink colorways.

They also have extra petals at the top, that extend like feathers from a fancy hat at the top of the lavender flower head.

The State Botanical Garden of Tennessee mentions that this variety is also referred to as “Butterfly Lavender” because the purple tops of the plant look like butterfly wings fluttering in the wind.

According to Siskiyou Seeds, this variety of lavender is early blooming. If you’re looking for a range of bloom times in your garden, this is a great choice for your first harvests of the season.

The downside of Spanish Lavender is that it will need some extra protection to survive winters in zone 6 and under. In these zones, you may wish to grow this variety in a container that you can bring into a greenhouse or even inside during the coldest months.

You can buy Spanish Lavender seeds from Siskiyou Seeds  or Renee’s Garden.

Bandera, Deep Rose colored Spanish Lavender from Swallowtail Garden Seeds.

Regenerative gardening techniques for growing lavender from seed

Interplanting with Lavender

Lavender needs wide spacing in order to grow to its maximum potential. This lends itself well to interplanting when lavender is young. You can utilize this space for the first several years and benefit from companion planting at the same time.

I like to interplant lavender with annuals or biennials. Basil, cilantro, parsley and chamomile are great options.

You can also make a more permanent Mediterranean garden with short-lived perennials such as artichoke and cardoon. Alternately, interplant an understory of oregano, marjoram, thyme, or chives.

Lavender for Dry Gardening and Water Conservation

Lavender lends itself well to dry climates, especially the more Mediterranean Spanish and French varieties.

In fact, this is why good drainage is essential for lavender to thrive. I have wet winters and clay soil. Without drainage, we’ve had some lavender plants not make it through the winter due to the wet conditions.

If you live in a dry climate or do not have access to water at your gardening site, lavender is a great choice.

Mulch around lavender plants

Mulch is an essential component for soil health. No guide on regenerative gardening with lavender would be complete without recommending mulch!

Mulch benefits the soil because as it breaks down, it adds organic matter. Since the soil is covered and protected, the soil can retain its moisture and nutrients.

Additionally, mulch protects the soil microbial community. In turn this benefits the plants and overall health of the soil.

Since lavender is a woody perennial plant, it prefers wood chips or fallen autumn leaves for mulch. Organic straw would also work, however, if you did not have access to these items.

Lavender for carbon sequestration

If a plant can carry out photosynthesis, it can support carbon storage in the soil. It’s through the process of photosynthesis and a relationship with soil microbes that helps draw down atmospheric carbon into nourishing soil material.

However, lavender has a distinct advantage in the garden: it’s a long-lived woody perennial. This means that it has a high potential of carbon capture, especially when compared to annual crops.

Lavender for pollinators and beneficial insects

Bumblebees

Lavender is extremely attractive to bees. In fact, studies have been done showing that out of a number of herbs and flowers, lavender is the most favored by bumblebees.

This is great news because many bumblebees are native, and aren’t as tended to as honeybees. If you are looking to attract native pollinators to your yard, or want to plant a bee garden, lavender is a must-have.

Butterflies

Lavender also is known to attract butterflies. Much of the information out there on which species of butterflies are not scientifically backed, however.

Luckily, there is a citizen science documentation of different butterfly species on lavender over at Meandering Wild. They are located in the UK. They spotted the following butterflies with lavender:

• Common Blue
• Peacock Butterfly
• Meadow Brown
• Red Admiral
• Brown Argus
• Small Tortoiseshell
• Comma Butterfly
• Painted Lady

They also spotted one of my favorite moths, the hummingbird hawk-moth, on lavender! Check out Meandering Wild’s great photoshoot of all of these lovely creatures on lavender plants.

Hoverflies

Permaculture Research Institute lists Lavandula angustifolia as a food source for hoverflies. This is good news if your garden suffers from aphids, mealybugs, thrips, leafhoppers, and other garden pests.

No-till lavender growing

You may think that you need to till an area of your garden to prepare it for your new lavender seedlings.

However, tilling the soil is not recommended in most cases. When soil is tilled, sequestered carbon is released back into the atmosphere.

No-till garden practices preserve soil structure, moisture, and microbial activity.

This can enhance the yield and health of the crop overall.

There is an alternative to tillage. In compacted soil, use a broadfork to loosen the soil. This has worked great for my garden in the past.

If you have heavy clay soil and are worried about drainage, there’s a way to support your plant and minimize soil disturbance.

Instead, just create a normal-sized hole to transplant your lavender seedling. Then, dig a little deeper and wider, and add in small stones for extra drainage. Fill the hole with loose compost and your seedling. Add mulch around your plant, and maintain that mulch layer in a 1 foot circumference around the outer edge of the plant. As the mulch breaks down, it will improve the structure of your clay soil.

Let the hole be big enough to transplant the seedling, plus some extra space to add in small stones for extra drainage.

Organic practices

Regenerative gardening focuses on healthy soil, healthy food, and a healthy planet.

This means no synthetic pesticides or herbicides.

Synthetic inputs create soil that is void of the normal microbe-plant relationships. These chemicals are also made from petroleum products. Overall, synthetic inputs add greenhouse gases into the environment.

Lavender is pretty free of pest pressure anyways, and grows lush and strong as long as the weather is ideal.

Common lavender problems

Avoid overwatering or waterlogged conditions that can lead to rot.

If you’ve planted your lavender in a poorly drained area and it’s looking sickly, don’t worry. There’s still hope! I’ve had a lot of luck with digging the lavender out of the ground and placing it in a container. I kept most of the clay soil in tact around the plant’s roots for minimal disturbance. However, I placed a well draining sandy soil mix around the root ball in the container.

I can happily report that these plants are still very much alive and thriving in our greenhouse, with just occasional watering needed. If you don’t have a greenhouse, place the container in a sheltered area out of rainfall during the dormant season.

Extreme temperatures may also affect lavender growth.

If you live in an area where winter is too cold for your plants, you can always try to do the same container trick that I mention above. A greenhouse can assist with the cold temperatures.

If you don’t have a greenhouse, you can bring the potted lavender into a garage or other warm spot during the coldest parts of the year. Supplemental light might be necessary depending on how long your winter is.

In contrast, extreme heat can damage lavender plants, especially if they are young.

If you regularly get hot temperatures, you may wish to plant your lavender in a partly shaded area. A spot that is ideal gets sunlight during the cooler morning hours, but is shaded during the afternoon when it’s hottest.

To grow lavender from seed is a rewarding endeavor

Lavender contributes to the regenerative practices and encourages biodiversity in your garden.

The cold stratification process is a key step in successful germination of lavender seeds.

The patience and care required to grow lavender from seed yields aromatic results that benefit both your garden and the environment.