A broadfork is a supportive tool for new gardeners. The best part? It makes itself obsolete after a few gardening seasons, so you can pass it down to another new gardener in a few years.

Why buy something that you’ll only need for a few years? Well, technically, you might not have to buy it.

→ Do you need a broadfork?
If your soil is already loamy or sandy, and isn’t compacted, then you probably don’t need a broadfork.

But if you’re putting in new gardens over clay soil or compacted soil, a broadfork is a better tool for the health of the soil and the environment as opposed to a standard rototiller.

What is a broadfork?

A broadfork looks like a pitchfork, only…well, broader.

Instead of one handle in the center of the fork, it has two handles on either side of the fork. Instead of 3 tines, a broadfork has 4 or 5. Instead of putting a foot on its edge to dig it into the soil, you step on a horizontal bar that runs between either handle.

You can even step both feet on it for seriously compacted heavy clay soil.

A broadfork is also called a U-fork, U-bar, Grelinette (Easy Digging).

Who uses broadforks?

Broadforks are a fantastic piece of equipment for anyone starting a new regenerative organic gardening. It’s also a tool that many no-till farmers and gardeners use on their land.

A broadfork is preferred to a rototiller or double digging the soil. This is because from an environmental standpoint, a broadfork does not release much, if any stored soil carbon into the atmosphere.

On the other hand, a tiller churns the soil and in doing so, previously sequestered carbon is released back into the atmosphere.

Broadforks also cause far less disruption to the soil microbiome when compared to tillage. In fact, the aeration process of a broadfork can actually increase soil microbes. The disruption to fungi is minimal when compared to tillage, as broadforking isn’t a continual slicing of mycelium.

Who needs a broadfork?

If the all of the following items describe you and your garden, a broadfork may be beneficial:

• new or newer gardens
• in-ground gardens
• clay soil, heavy clay soil, compacted soil
• environmental benefit over immediate results
• you do not want to wait several years to plant a garden or do not have infinite supply of organic matter

A broadfork is not necessary if your land and garden meets any of these disqualifiers:

• have loamy or sandy soil (or rocky - rocky soil can damage your broadfork and cause injury)
• have an established garden with 6 inches or more of healthy soil
• you are gardening in raised beds
• you don’t mind waiting a few years to plant into your garden and have access to a ton of organic material, such as organic manure, organic straw, organic hay, wood chips, mountains of weed-free grass clippings, etc.

Broadforks are most helpful for folks with soil that is tough to work with, and who don’t want to wait several years to plant into their garden.

The least invasive way to plant out a new garden over heavy compacted clay soil is with a ton of layering of organic materials and some patience for that to break down. This isn’t practical for many folks, but it is an option if you want to avoid any soil disturbance.

My experience with broadforks

I garden on land that is heavy clay soil and have only needed to run a broadfork through new garden areas once when putting the garden in.

Since then, adding organic matter through mulch, compost has done wonders to the soil. I’ve also planted daikon radish as a cover crop, where each radish is kind of like a tine of the broadfork. We cut back the top of the radish, and keep the root in place to decompose. The greenery becomes mulch.

When you work a broadfork through the soil, you are adding air into the soil. These pockets of air, when combined with other regenerative practices, will eventually build soil health and provide you with improved soil tilth.

Do broadforks disturb the soil?

A top tenet of regenerative gardening and agriculture is to disturb the soil as little as possible.

Soil disturbance can release carbon, especially when soil is flipped over or tilled. Soil disturbance also damages the soil microbiome, and can harm beneficial microbes and fungi.

Regenerative gardeners keep roots in the ground when possible, and aim to not till the soil, especially after beds are established.

Some folks consider a broadfork to be a part of no-till equipment. Others may call it a tilthage tool, or a low-till tool.

However, when compared with tilling the soil, broadforking is far less disruptive.

Broadforking does not involve turning the soil over. The layers of the soil are maintained. Broadforking lifts the soil every 1-2 ft but then places it back down again.

Unlike tilling, a broadfork isn’t a continuous path of destruction to soil bacteria and fungi.

That’s not to say that it’s a 100% no-disturbance tool. There is some soil disturbance that happens.

But when compared with tillage, broadforking is far less destructive. If you had to pick between the two, a broadfork is better for your soil and for the environment.

How does broadforking benefit and improve the soil?

• Explain its primary function: loosening and aerating the soil without disrupting its structure.
• Highlight the advantages of using a broadfork in regenerative farming practices.
• Improved soil structure and drainage.
• Enhanced microbial activity and nutrient cycling.
• Reduction in soil compaction.
• Minimal disturbance to beneficial organisms and earthworms.
• Increased organic matter decomposition.
• Promotion of root growth and plant health.

Another thing to consider is that broadforking isn’t a stand-alone tool.

In a regenerative organic no-till landscape, broadforking is utilized in conjunction with other soil improvement methods.

Cover crops, mulch, consistent plantings, and leaving roots behind in the ground when possible are all going to help your soil health. When these regenerative techniques follow broadforking, the soil will improve greatly and the times that broadforking is needed will greatly reduce.

Broadforking vs Tillage:

According to UNH, there are several disadvantages to tilling:

• can cause deadpan in hard clay
• brings weed seeds to the surface to germinate
• causes a lot of damage to soil microbiome
• releases carbon into the atmosphere
• diminishes soil water retention
• increases risk of soil erosion
• much less fungal diversity in the soil

Advantages of broadforking:

• soil structure is not inverted so less weed seeds are brought to the surface (Mother Earth News)
• supports soil tilth without risk of erosion or deadpan (Easy Digging)
• increases soil’s water holding capacity (Easy Digging)
• keeps more carbon in the ground when compared with tillage (Green America)

Disadvantages of broadforking:

• you might need to run a broadfork through a couple of times a year for a year or two before the soil structure is optimal
• minor soil disturbance does happen
• minor fungal disturbance does happen

How to Use a Broadfork

Here’s how to use a broadfork as a regenerative gardener. I’ve included tips on best practices based on how broadforks have worked for me in the past; consult the brand of broadfork that you have so that you know you’re working with it properly.

Before you broadfork:

1. Cover the area that you wish to broadfork with a black silage tarp for at least a week to kill back any grass, weeds, or residual crops.
2. Keep any non-invasive plant roots in the ground; they’ll break down and help add organic matter to your soil.

On the day of broadforking:

1. Make sure that the soil isn’t water-logged or exceptionally dry. For my heavy clay soil, I found that 3 days after a rain during the cool spring weather was perfect.
2. Wear sturdy shoes and garden gloves to work with the broadfork comfortably.
3. You may wish to apply a layer of compost to the area so that the broadforking process works in the deeper layers of the soil.

Use your broadfork:

1. Hold the handles of the broadfork
2. Stand facing the direction you wish to move with the broadfork in front of you.
3. Insert the tines of the broadfork into the soil. Place a foot on the broadfork to help insert it into the soil, so your body weight to assists you. Push the tines vertically into the ground with your foot.
4. When the broadfork is in the soil, place both feet solidly on the ground. Use the handles and your body weight to lift the soil up. You’ll bring the handles towards the ground. Where the broadfork started out at 90 degrees perpendicular to the soil, you’ll bring the handles down to 30-45 degrees to lift and loosen up the soil.
5. Release the lifted soil back to the ground. Do not invert the soil. Lift the broadfork out of the soil and move 1-2 ft forward to repeat the process.
6. Work your way systematically through the entire garden bed, methodically loosening the soil.
7. Take breaks! It is a workout!

It is crucial to prioritize your safety while using a broadfork. Here are some considerations for proper body mechanics and ergonomics:

• Maintain a neutral spine and avoid overreaching or twisting your body excessively.
• Do not use a broadfork if your balance is compromised in any way.
• Distribute your body weight evenly and use the power of your legs and core muscles to lift and leverage the broadfork.
• Pace yourself and avoid excessive force or sudden jerks.
• Choose a broadfork with the right handle length for your height to ensure comfortable usage.
• Do not use a broadfork if your soil is very rocky.

Choosing the Right Broadfork

I have experience with two broadfork brands: Meadow Creature and DeWit.

Meadow Creature

The Meadow Creature brand prides itself on being indestructible, sturdy, and extremely well-made - all of which I can attest to.

We have the  Meadow Creature’s The People’s Broadfork in regular. Weighing in at 15 lb, this tool goes 12 inches into the soil.

Meadow Creature recommends it for “smaller size folks, older adults, anyone who prefers a lighter weight tool.”

The People’s Broadfork also comes in a “tall” size for people 5 ft 8 and above, which is 22lbs.

All Meadow Creature broadforks are made with alloy steel and are solidly welded together with the fork, so they are tough enough to break new ground in your garden. Even if you have hard clay or hardpan, these forks will aerate your soil.

The People’s Broadfork is a beast, and it does its job well. It’s the tool my husband prefers and is what we used to break new ground in compacted clay soil that had been trampled by horses for years. I think that the People’s Broadfork’s solid construction will help you to do the same.

Even at 15 lbs., I personally find this tool to be a little heavy to move around for long periods of time. But, it’s solid and works wonders for the soil.

The People’s Broadfork is $269; purchase it with free shipping here from Meadow Creature

DeWit

The DeWit broadfork is great for those who have run a broadfork or tiller through their land before, and who don’t have hardpan.

It’s light weight frame is made of galvanized solid steel. It weighs just under 8 lbs., and for me is very ergonomically designed.

While the Meadow Creature has a single round top to step on, I benefit from the double wrung step on the DeWit. It’s easier for me to balance on and rock back and forth to loosen up the soil. The handle of the DeWit has a crossbar at the top, which works well for me to pull the broadfork back.

However, I have bent the tines slightly when working this through the soil. They haven’t broken off and the broadfork is still useable. The tines are not as thick or sturdy as the Meadow Creature.

As of this writing, this model is around $250. Purchase it here from Greenhouse Megastore.

Other broadfork options that I haven’t tried:

Treadlite

Treadlite has a variety of broadforks available, and I’ve heard good things about them from other gardeners.

Their broadforks are customizable, so you can have wooden handles or steel handles. Treadlite recommends steel handles when breaking ground for the first time on uncultivated land.

Their Square Foot Gardener model is 24” wide with 6 12” tines. It is 17 lbs with steel handles.

As of this writing, this model is $265. Purchase it from Treadlite here.

Bully

Bully has a Broadfork with Fiberglass Handles which is the least expensive broadfork I have found that I think would stand up to heavy clay soil. It's more than $100 less than the other brands.

The fork is made with steel, and the handles are fiberglass with a steel encasement. The handles have a wood core which helps the fork to be extremely strong. The top of the handles have rubber gripping, and the fork itself is removeable from the handles.

They have a limited lifetime warranty on their products.

As of this writing, the Bully Broadfork is around $120. Purchase it from Bully Tools here.

The broadfork: if you need it, it's the best tool for your soil

If you're starting a regenerative garden, or tending to a new no-till garden, the broadfork may be exactly what you need to grow healthy vegetables in lush soil.

It's not an instant fix, but it is far better for the environment than tillage. No risk for soil erosion or deadpan on clay soil, either.

I've seen firsthand the way that a broadfork can transform clay soil - I credit it for getting us established with our garden when we first started out.

Learn more about no-till regenerative gardening

Discover how to transition away from tillage in your garden, and learn how to get started with a regenerative garden here.