A broadfork is an essential tool for new gardeners.
A broadfork looks like a pitchfork, only…well, broader. Here are its key features:
You can even step both feet on it for seriously compacted heavy clay soil.
A broadfork is also called a U-fork, U-bar, Grelinette (Easy Digging).
Broadforks are fantastic for anyone starting a new regenerative organic garden. They’re commonly used by no-till farmers and gardeners.
A broadfork is preferred to a rototiller or double digging the soil. This is because from an environmental standpoint, a broadfork does not release much, if any stored soil carbon into the atmosphere.
On the other hand, a tiller churns the soil and in doing so, previously sequestered carbon is released back into the atmosphere.
Broadforks also cause far less disruption to the soil microbiome when compared to tillage. In fact, the aeration process of a broadfork can actually increase soil microbes. The disruption to fungi is minimal when compared to tillage, as broadforking isn’t a continual slicing of mycelium.
If the all of the following items describe you and your garden, a broadfork may be beneficial:
A broadfork is not necessary if your land and garden meets any of these disqualifiers:
Broadforks are most helpful for folks with soil that is tough to work with, and who don’t want to wait several years to plant into their garden.
The least invasive way to plant out a new garden over heavy compacted clay soil is with a ton of layering of organic materials and some patience for that to break down. This isn’t practical for many folks, but it is an option if you want to avoid any soil disturbance.
I garden on land that is heavy clay soil and have only needed to run a broadfork through new garden areas once when putting the garden in.
Since then, adding organic matter through mulch, compost has done wonders to the soil.
I’ve also planted daikon radish as a cover crop, where each radish is kind of like a tine of the broadfork. We cut back the top of the radish, and keep the root in place to decompose. The greenery becomes mulch.
When you work a broadfork through the soil, you are adding air into the soil. These pockets of air, when combined with other regenerative practices, will eventually build soil health and provide you with improved soil tilth.
A top tenet of regenerative gardening and agriculture is to disturb the soil as little as possible.
Soil disturbance can release carbon, especially when soil is flipped over or tilled. Soil disturbance also damages the soil microbiome, and can harm beneficial microbes and fungi.
Regenerative gardeners keep roots in the ground when possible, and aim to not till the soil, especially after beds are established.
Some folks consider a broadfork to be a part of no-till equipment. Others may call it a tilthage tool, or a low-till tool.
However, when compared with tilling the soil, broadforking is far less disruptive.
Broadforking does not involve turning the soil over. The layers of the soil are maintained. Broadforking lifts the soil every 1-2 ft but then places it back down again.
Unlike tilling, a broadfork isn’t a continuous path of destruction to soil bacteria and fungi.
That’s not to say that it’s a 100% no-disturbance tool. There is some soil disturbance that happens.
But when compared with tillage, broadforking is far less destructive. If you had to pick between the two, a broadfork is better for your soil and for the environment.
In a regenerative organic no-till landscape, broadforking is utilized in conjunction with other soil improvement methods.
Cover crops, mulch, consistent plantings, and leaving roots behind in the ground when possible are all going to help your soil health. When these regenerative techniques follow broadforking, the soil will improve greatly and the times that broadforking is needed will greatly reduce.
According to UNH, there are several disadvantages to tilling:
Advantages of broadforking:
Disadvantages of broadforking:
Here’s how to use a broadfork as a regenerative gardener. I’ve included tips on best practices based on how broadforks have worked for me in the past; consult the brand of broadfork that you have so that you know you’re working with it properly.
Before you broadfork:
On the day of broadforking:
Use your broadfork:
It is crucial to prioritize your safety while using a broadfork. Here are some considerations for proper body mechanics and ergonomics:
I have experience with two broadfork brands: Meadow Creature and DeWit.
The Meadow Creature brand prides itself on being indestructible, sturdy, and extremely well-made - all of which I can attest to.
We have the Meadow Creature’s The People’s Broadfork in regular. Weighing in at 15 lb, this tool goes 12 inches into the soil.
Meadow Creature recommends it for “smaller size folks, older adults, anyone who prefers a lighter weight tool.”
The People’s Broadfork also comes in a “tall” size for people 5 ft 8 and above, which is 22lbs.
All Meadow Creature broadforks are made with alloy steel and are solidly welded together with the fork, so they are tough enough to break new ground in your garden. Even if you have hard clay or hardpan, these forks will aerate your soil.
The People’s Broadfork is a beast, and it does its job well. It’s the tool my husband prefers and is what we used to break new ground in compacted clay soil that had been trampled by horses for years. I think that the People’s Broadfork’s solid construction will help you to do the same.
Even at 15 lbs., I personally find this tool to be a little heavy to move around for long periods of time. But, it’s solid and works wonders for the soil.
The DeWit broadfork is great for those who have run a broadfork or tiller through their land before, and who don’t have hardpan.
It’s light weight frame is made of galvanized solid steel. It weighs just under 8 lbs., and for me is very ergonomically designed.
While the Meadow Creature has a single round top to step on, I benefit from the double wrung step on the DeWit. It’s easier for me to balance on and rock back and forth to loosen up the soil. The handle of the DeWit has a crossbar at the top, which works well for me to pull the broadfork back.
However, I have bent the tines slightly when working this through the soil. They haven’t broken off and the broadfork is still useable. The tines are not as thick or sturdy as the Meadow Creature.
Treadlite has a variety of broadforks available, and I’ve heard good things about them from other gardeners.
Their broadforks are customizable, so you can have wooden handles or steel handles. Treadlite recommends steel handles when breaking ground for the first time on uncultivated land.
Their Square Foot Gardener model is 24” wide with 6 12” tines. It is 17 lbs with steel handles.
Bully has a Broadfork with Fiberglass Handles which is the least expensive broadfork I have found that I think would stand up to heavy clay soil. It's more than $100 less than the other brands.
The fork is made with steel, and the handles are fiberglass with a steel encasement. The handles have a wood core which helps the fork to be extremely strong. The top of the handles have rubber gripping, and the fork itself is removeable from the handles.
They have a limited lifetime warranty on their products.
If you're starting a regenerative garden, or tending to a new no-till garden, the broadfork may be exactly what you need to grow healthy vegetables in lush soil.
It's not an instant fix, but it is far better for the environment than tillage. No risk for soil erosion or deadpan on clay soil, either.
I've seen firsthand the way that a broadfork can transform clay soil - I credit it for getting us established with our garden when we first started out.
Discover how to transition away from tillage in your garden, and learn how to get started with a regenerative garden here.